2021 . 12 . 21
縫製チーム・宮崎直美の、超感覚的モノづくり論。
Sewing Team member, Naomi Miyazaki, talks about her hyper-sensible creativity.
「昔から自分が見てきたもの・触れてきたもの、体験してきたもののイメージとかって、ずぅーっと残ってるでしょ?フレアスカートの場合は高校生の時に観た『風と共に去りぬ』のスカーレット・オハラ。映画観てる時って内容もやけど、周囲の景色とか小道具とか、色のトーンとかが、主人公とマッチしてると、わぁすごいおしゃれな映画!って思ったりする。そういうので自分のセンスを磨く。あれエエな、とか。」
「縫い方なんかでもね、抑えつけて縫うんじゃなくて、できるだけ“自然な”状態で。アイロンしてパチッと型付けるんじゃなくて。生地によってそれぞれやけどね。ウチの生地はそんな風にしやすい。できるだけ自然な状態で生地を...「折り紙とは違う」ってとこ。糸の一本一本も、フニャフニャと生きとるな、って。」
「頭の中にあるイメージをカタチにしたい、ってゆう。あらかじめデザイン画描いて、じゃないんですよ。布から始まる。「ダックス」なんかでも元々、絶対何か使えるわって半年間眠らせてた、気に入った生地の部分があて。面白いパンツとか創りたいなって、でも出来上がらなくて、ポイッて机の上に置いた、その瞬間に見えた。置いた、そのカタチ。あれっ?カワイイんちゃうん!?って。これを使いたい、なんとかしたいと。」
“We always keep images of what we have seen, touched or experienced from long ago, right? Scarlett O'Hara influenced the flared skirt in Gone with the Wind when I watched it in high school. Watching movies is not just enjoying stories; I enjoy watching the details of surrounding views, props, and colour tones. If they match the main characters, I think such movies are incredible. I can improve my sense of style by watching them. I study what is good.”
“Sewing them is like inserting fabrics inside, not sewing while holding them tight. You have to sew them as natural as possible, not making sharp lines with an iron. It makes some difference depending on some fabrics, though our materials are generally easy to treat. We treat them as naturally as possible. I can say that it's different from folding origami. If I try describing it, each thread is alive, soft and floppy.”
“I just want to see the products I have in my mind and make them. I don't start with drawing designs, but it starts from a piece of cloth. Talking about 'Dachs', I stored some favourite materials for a half year that I thought were useful. I wanted to make exciting pants but I couldn't make them. When I put those materials down on the desk, I was inspired. I was inspired by the shape of the materials that I put down. I thought, what if it might be cute!? I thought I had to help by using this.”