niime 百科

Encyclopedia of niime

At the exhibition in Tokyo, the encounter with Mr. Hirofumi Nishikaku; a Banshu-ori craftsman, connected to Tamaki and Banshu-ori. “I was certain that it would be an interesting creation if I tried to produce perfection of the material, specifically fabrics. I felt its value would shine if I polished it.” Tamaki recalls. Since she found the ‘unpolished gem’ called Banshu-ori, Tamaki would not limit herself as a designer, she has continued, using trial and error in pursuit of her vision of an uncompromising creation. Tamaki sticks to creating works with a defined purpose and is good at refining them. On the other hand, Sakai can bring up an unexpected idea from nothing, even if it is a rough cut. Playing catch with the banter of these two individuals, who have opposite personalities, and their honest discussion has created an energy that helped evolve ‘tamaiki niime’ into what it is now.

Tamaki

“Our process originally started like this; how can we combine our strong opposing viewpoints and create something incredibly satisfying? Because I had such an enthusiastic perspective on how to create something interesting. But Sakai had a totally different idea. From the consumers’ viewpoint, he thought, ‘no one would wear that’. We have been focusing on it, and the ‘shawl’ is the creation of this conflict. We were sure that it would sell well and I imagine it would be more enjoyable to pursue this creatively.”

Sakai

“Yeah, just like that.”

Tamaki

“Before the birth of the ‘shawl’, we did not have set roles. We tried many concepts… trial and error. Sakai was into web design, making and expressing various things there. We were trying to create or structure something in very different ways, trying to figure out where we really headed to.”

Sakai

“I think the people around us weren’t sure what we were doing.”

Tamaki

“We couldn’t see the real goal back then.”

Sakai

“Our creation didn’t have a landing point at that time. Most common brands seem to have a commonality even though it may be vague. So they create this generic creation and consumers cluster around it. We didn’t have that kind of mindset. Our fabric was eccentric, and the patterns and shapes were interesting, and it was good in a way, like floating in the air, until I got to the shawl. I had been flying like an airplane without touching the ground…directionless.”

Tamaki

“Not in the creation point but lacking in direction, I didn’t know where I was walking towards, but I also wanted to enjoy not knowing. But we were questioned as to what they want to do?”

Tamaki

“They did not understand that experimental behaviour, but we didn’t even try to make them understand.”

– Were you aware of ‘tamaki niime”s branding on the website at that time?

Sakai

“No! Not at all. We didn’t consider it as a business. We didn’t even care how other people evaluate us. We did everything as we liked. Since we had no landing point, we just kept trying over one thing or another. There was no limitation, so that was the most enjoyable period. We were not settling down in a particular place, it’s like we were somewhere no one could comprehend our stance.”

Tamaki

“Even when we first came to Nishiwaki, we were still like that. We had a twisted mind. We started what we didn’t want to do, like something others had done. We totally denied the idea or rules that apparel should do this or branding should be like that. We were chaotic. But we really enjoyed it. Even we were starving. (Laugh)”

It is difficult to imagine from the comfortable and sophisticated appearance of ‘tamaki niime’ when it was still at its primary stage would have been so chaotic. Freely cultivated, these works that eventually became their shawls, settled into a direction, and finally, these creations of ‘tamaki niime’ came into full bloom. Tamaki and Sakai, who have different abilities, combined without exception, the role of each other became clear.

Tamaki

“I struggled with it at first. Like which way to lead the company or how to improve in some specific manner… I usually propose the idea and then ask Sakai. He sometimes totally agrees or dismisses the idea. Then we start discussing. I decide upon the idea that forms the core concept. When the solution is flashing on my own, it is good, but when I don’t know what to do, I toss that to Sakai and get feedback from him, “How about this way?” or “How about this approach?” When I don’t feel right, I tell him I don’t like it, or I argue back (laugh). Then I ask him to imagine something different. We finally agree with each other and embrace the idea. That’s how we usually do.”

Sakai

“Our verbal arguments are usually so intense. On the other hand, our staff always says the right things at our meeting. It is like this ‘nice-nice’ play. I feel like I want to break it.”

Tamaki

“Our staff is not used to the discussion yet, I’m trying to show our discussion to them, but they usually turn off(bitter smile). They told us to calm down. I want them to imitate us. I want them to say things honestly. It is not good or bad, just say something what they really think. It’s not about what people think. This is not denying others. This is a discussion to derive even better ideas.”

Sakai

“The discussion between Tamaki and me has lively dynamism, not respray. It is tiring like all-out pitching, but it is worthwhile. On the other hand, our staff is still not suffering from giving birth, and I am not satisfied that I can’t feel it from the staff.”

Tamaki

“In an attempt to improve the situation, we try not to discuss as much as possible. If we do, we end up deciding everything by ourselves. We keep quiet and then position ourselves to just observe the discussion of the staff. Of course, we make a final decision, but we told them to think and discuss it themselves, and then report us. That’s what we have been trying to do, over and over. If they start a small discussion to decide something, it will lead to it becoming habit. Even if they spend an hour discussing and deciding something, I often turn down their ideas quickly. But the fact that they spent an hour to determine something and their experience is essential. And it will lead to the next idea. Actually, they need to be experienced. The number of discussions will become habit, and they will delve more deeply into their ideas.”

Sakai

“In extreme terms, I want them to work with all their enthusiasm, and if they can’t do that, everything will be broken. That’s how it is supposed to be.”

Tamaki

“That’s why, before the current Shop & Lad was established, Sakai and I double-checked every small decision that the staff had made and thought the design. Because we believed that we could not create anything halfway done. Based on Sakai and my experiences, we used to create something new and preferable for customers like we always had been creating. Now our staff creates designs. Because if they don’t, there is no future. At first, it was hard, because it was not good quality as creation. I felt it was done half-way. Due to my experience, I can see how or where to alter, so it frustrated me. But they have to suffer from conception and see the reality that their creation would not sell. They need some successful experience to sell well, but they have to learn more from the failure. The pressure or frustrations from that will help create sophisticated and complex ideas that lead to making better changes. If we change everything into something sell well, our staff will not learn and grow up. The point of landing is not always acceptable, but of course at least as long as we meet our standards, even if we think there is still room for improvement, we will give the okay.”

-Are there aspects of risk to your brand?

Sakai

“In the sense of creation to create from 0 to 1, just like Tamaki said, it is totally meaningless unless the stuff does not create something they want to wear and what they want to have. It is meaningless to see what has been created but not be satisfied from the bottom of their hearts. Just like when Tamaki and I used to have trial and error, it wasn’t because of what other people think. All the staff has to have this ‘feeling of joy’, that feeling of euphoria and dynamism. So even if it is somewhat risky, we will let them do this more and more.”

Tamaki

“That is not just the designing staff, but also the sales staff and the sales team so they understand the risk and responsibility yet do their best.”

Sakai

“Yes! All of our staff will devote themselves with full energy.”

Tamaki

“They should enjoy selling. They should not do it because they were told. They should be actively creative to imagine an interesting way to be treated as a consumer and a customer.”

Sakai

“When it comes to doing business in the framework of capitalism, everybody starts from “logic”. I wonder why. Can’t we express our dynamic feeling of ourselves? I mean… if we can show our direct and intuitive style, logical thought will come along. Actually, the people who receive the expression will structure the logic as they like.”

– Semantics and reasons come afterwards.

Sakai

“Yeah. Expressing your own thoughts directly is the first step towards putting energy into it. Not in a manipulative way. I think it is the essential basis of creation from zero to one. Tamaki and I want to be that way and hope our staff to be as well.”

– I felt that there was a unique value in their searching period; looking for possibility, with no limitations, enjoying the search daily until they bore ‘fruit’, the shawl.

Sakai

“There was no line, if I compare to football, there are several goals, and you can shoot anywhere. We could dribble to anywhere … it’s like a totally free situation, it was so much fun.”

– No rules…

Sakai

“We made shots on various goals.”

Tamaki

“At that time, the direction has not yet been decided, however, I knew it would arrive at the shawl … I did not yet know specifically that it was the ‘form’ of a shawl. We truly believed that we were going to get to our goal. Not like at the company I previously worked for, I wanted to think freely without unfettered. We invested our time and money. We pursued what we really wanted; what we really should do, and did it in the first three years, right?”

Sakai

“So after that time, I think that this way of expressing ‘tamaki niime’ now, how to launch it is because we had gone through such a process. There is apparel that chooses popular things without thought. I don’t even want to compare to them, There is a big difference if it goes through it or not.”

Tamaki

“Our current staff is possibly that way because the environment has already been completed without trial and error.”

Sakai

“I don’t like the idea scooping the supernatant without knowing thick sediment; like ’Let’s do it because it’s popular’,”

Tamaki

“Oh, the mood that design is easy is nonsense.”

– So you have ‘sediment’, or I should say accumulation during your process to see the fruits the shawl.

Sakai

“Yeah, that is the basis of creation that creates from 0 to 1.”

Tamaki

“That’s why. If each individual staff member as a designer does their own work, make use of this ‘tamaki niime’ environment more, and doesn’t wait to be taught. They should figure it out or ask us more questions. That’s how I feel. I sometimes wonder if they are really interested in it, or not.”

Sakai

“They are pretending to be nice or good, I guess. But to make ‘tamaki niime’ deep brand, I would like them to have an open mind and express themselves freely as well as having common sense.”

Tamaki

“We should be the group to change the world! Just like the Meiji Restoration. What do you think?”

Sakai

“That’s why we have to fight in a good way…they are a little too good, right? Really, we are not denying them, but we hope them to be.”

Tamaki

“My future vision, as I mentioned before, when I started working for a company after I graduated vocational college, I had questions; why is the world so boring? Capitalism is no fun, what is the design for, why am I making clothes?… etc. At that time, someone said, “Don’t choose your favourite thing as a job”. Because you’ll be disappointed. Keep it as your hobby. Pursue your hobby as your free time, or it will not be exciting and feel short of breath because there are so many limitations. I was wondered and couldn’t understand it. Because I couldn’t spend as much time on my hobby. So I picked my favorite as my job without hesitation. You know I’m a very contrary person.”

Sakai

“If we can’t do it as a job, we can’t do with our strength and all our heart.”

Tamaki

“This facility is everything that I really wanted, to be an exciting member of society, not the disappointed company or business person when I first graduated. So we started taking graduates now.”

– Actually, it is an inspiring space when we see it from outside.

Tamaki

“That’s why I tell them to be extraordinary.”

– Because you’ve prepared the environment so well.

Tamaki

“In that sense, things’ getting more and more interesting. The people who have already studied and had some experience are here now with us, it depends on how we grow them to into ‘fruit’. They usually have some common sense as a decent adult, so it takes time to take to peel it off them. But it is our responsibility to make a crazy environment including to train them how to work to be extraordinary.”

Sakai

“Indeed.”

Sakai

“To create one from zero’ can be described as…deviating from common sense. As the first prerequisite, if you worry about public eyes or common sense, you can’t create unique artwork in any form.”

Sakai

“You can teach common sense later, but you can only deviate when you are young. Because you become stubborn when you get older. That’s why it is just like ‘birth pains’, you have to breakthrough even it if is hard. Otherwise, it will be difficult when we are going to renew ‘tamaki niime’ in the future.”

– “They create because there is none”. That is one of their creations’ mottos. Rather than mimicking something, they create because they can’t find something they like. They even enjoy creating with full force. Their experience; before they found their direction, unorthodox, in a sense, chaotic trial and error period is undoubtedly the basis of the creation by Tamaki and Sakai.

Sakai

“So far, create it, destroy it, make it again, break it up and create it. That’s how we came all the way so far from the beginning, gradually built up. I have not dared to build it straight.”

Tamaki

“Although we might be contrary persons, I do not want other people to understand ‘tamaki niime’ easily. Anyway, I’m always thinking about it with a lot of enthusiasm, and it’s too much fun so I will change more and more from now on.”

Original Japanese text by Seiji Koshikawa.
English translation by Adam & Michiko Whipple.