niime 百科

Encyclopedia of niime

Ryuta Fujimoto returns from our last interview. He has been feeling and experiencing ‘tamaki niime’ creation firsthand at the ‘weaving’ factory. Seeing the brand from a bird’s eye view from Public Relations, he talks slowly and carefully about ‘tamaki niime’ with SDGs, relationships with Banshu-ori local districts, handing down brand skills and creations for the future.

Fujimoto

Speaking of the Fabric Store, we sell ‘a scrap of cloth’ in Machida.

—— Oh, I saw a discussion with Ms Makoto Ishizuka on YouTube: ‘Tokyo MACHIDA’.

Fujimoto

Our customers can decide the price of ‘a scrap of cloth’.

—— Wow!!

Fujimoto

Basically, we sell it to introduce other things. We want customers to decide the value of that scrap of cloth and price it. It all depends on them. Some people give it 10 yen (10cents), and others pay 1000 yen ($10). A little child makes something with it and buys a piece of fabric with her little allowance. Looking at standard material compared to scrap fabrics, some customers wonder if they can use it as a sheet of spreader, although they don’t know how to sew.

—— Fabric spurs imagination and creativity.

Fujimoto

Surely we make ‘Tamask’ and ‘Cloth Tissues’ out of scrap fabrics. Some customers are inspired to do patchwork with ‘a scrap of cloth’.

—— Wow, they are imaginative.

Fujimoto

We thought about pricing these scraps of cloth, but instead wanted to donate them. We ended up deciding to allow customers to choose their value themselves. Doing that would make customers take care of it by themselves, which we think is more important. If they don’t pay for the given value but rather invest money for the value they provide, I think they would pay attention to use with care for a long time.

—— I see…

Fujimoto

There’s no value, 0 yen for the people who think it is trash. They would throw them away without a second thought. However, some may wonder, “what would I think? I think this is valuable.” Those people may find value in other things, too. Even though the apparel industry is excited to say “this is eco-friendly”, I wonder if such a message hits regular people. It would be a big challenge for people to take it as their own. Not new eco-friendly materials, but can we find value in what we have now?

—— Yes.

Fujimoto

What we want to do with these cloth scraps is to let customers experience sustainability and know what they think about it.

—— How do they assign value?

Fujimoto

And another matter is to let them know why we have a scrap of cloth.

—— That’s the fundamental question, right?

Fujimoto

In the apparel industry, cloth scraps are inevitably produced, but most people wouldn’t know until they see them. If more people had questions about this, they would have more value, and we would know if our efforts were working. So we are looking forward to seeing how both things are going to work.

—— A scrap of cloth may help open one of those doors. Beyond that, I can see our efforts for our SDGs and works for future generation development, which I feel is wonderful. However, they give value by themselves, not giving them a choice to buy or not buy for given prices. So I think there’s a possibility that most consumer actions would change.

Fujimoto

I think we live in a world where the experience you decide by yourself is becoming less and less common. This effort is one of the experimental challenges to that.

—— It’s a niime ‘scrap of cloth’ project, right?

Fujimoto

That’s one of our ideas for this project. As part of our creation, I think we have responsibility for using this ‘scrap of cloth’ that will be producing more and more in the future. So what we are trying to do now is revert the cloth scraps to threads again.

—— Wow!

Fujimoto

We scratch fabrics and flatten cotton paste.

—— Can you revert them to cotton?

Fujimoto

This is initially a technology for wool products, but we can apply it to cotton. After flattening the threads, they are blended with our cotton grown at ‘tamaki niime’. We are working to make that sample.

—— I see.

Fujimoto

Making a scrap of cloth reusable as threads again, recycling them and small unused cloth scraps would make that possible. We want to do that. Other than that, in the factory, we can make ‘Cloth Tissues’, ‘Tamask’, and small items, or sell them as is. We will have a lot more things to do. If we could create more items with them, it may be possible for people to realize that they are not worthless. I think they are worth the effort for SDGs and sustainable activities.

—— I am looking forward to seeing how it goes and want to share your accomplishment with the world. Well, besides your Fabric Store, how is the weaving team doing recently?

Fujimoto

Well, I am putting some distance from the weaving team.

—— You are distancing from them?

Fujimoto

Yes, I am hoping to do so and speaking to the boss about it. I am thinking to let them go it alone.

—— I see.

Fujimoto

Now, Ms Ishizuka and I are still on the team, but she is now on maternity leave. Everyone in the group joined the team after myself. Personally, I want to operate the weaving looms in the factory and help follow their work, but I want to be away from production and machine maintenance. So I have been doing both Public Relations and working on Koshirae-kai while I worked in weaving.

—— You have been working as an auxiliary?

Fujimoto

I am wondering which one is my real job. At first, I joined the company because I wanted to weave shawls. Then, I asked to be a weaver and was allowed when there were only three weavers, including myself, were in the factory. It was so much fun. After that there was a time when I was busy; I worked both Public Relations and weaving while I also worked for washing at the same time.

—— I see.

Fujimoto

I started Public Relations and then also started doing Koshirae-kai. At first, I couldn’t decide which one I should put more weight on because they were all significant that I wanted to make an effort towards.

—— I understand.

Fujimoto

I have been struggling with myself about what I should do. Probably it’s still true though, why I have been able to work for Public Relations is because I have work experience in weaving.

—— I see.

Fujimoto

That’s true. I have been weaving at ‘tamaki niime’, which is why I can talk to people and understand what Tamaki says. ‘tamaki niime’ has been doing many things, and their logo is designed to look like a loom from the side. Weaving is still exceptional for me.

Being away from the designing at the desk, Tamaki’s unique career has started by weaving with the loom just like talking to the machines. We could say that’s their origin and essence of weaving work.

Fujimoto

I feel happy that I am able to be in the position to tell that to people. I know such a skill is exceptional. That’s why I had a passion for mastering the skill to teach everyone as well, but I began feeling it was complicated to do by myself.

—— I see.

Fujimoto

As I think for the future, I think it’s better to get work done with everyone. I keep them away from me so that they feel by themselves and have their responsibilities. I am thinking of doing this that way and discussing with Ms Tamaki and gradually getting out of weaving. Instead, I want to focus on work that relates to outside connections.

—— As standing in a position with knowing to weave.

Fujimoto

And also I want to work on planning related matters. Like the Fabric Store, when we start doing something new, I want to be the main person working on it. I think that’s my role. Right now, I am working for Public Relations or making connections; I want to make the path to let others walk more easily right now, I teach the staff how to have interviews and deal with responses, or factory tours, and we will have more people who can do that. So I trust and depend on them and distance from them, and I would find other things to do.

—— I see.

Fujimoto

I always think about that.

—— He appears in his capacity as a leader among the staff. Within the company, he is at the frontier. First, he explains each task plainly. Then, he hands it down to the next in line, who can keep things going continuously. This has him breaking down Ms Tamaki’s philosophy to help apply it to the younger staff work. By doing so, they can share their expected values in the company.

Fujimoto

Honestly, it’s tough. Without many experiences, I wouldn’t have understood them. For example, due to the many experiences we have it is easier to speak to people. Generally thinking, speaking seems an easy job that everyone can do. However, I’ve become more confident to speak than before. I have learned what Ms Tamaki would say in situations through understanding the essence of ’tamaki niime’ through conversations with her.

—— I see.

Fujimoto

If Ms Tamaki says I’m wrong, that’s all.

—— (laugh)

Fujimoto

If what I say is wrong, all I do is apologize to her. I mean, I am ready to do that. I can do that because I have been doing that.

—— I think I understand him very well because I have been explaining ‘tamaki niime’ in the ‘niime Encyclopedia’. The ‘weaving’ is based on himself, which he mentioned is right to the point. He is the designer and weaver who started weaving by himself. I think that’s where ‘tamaki niime’ started, and he works at Banshu-ori’s birthplace, which overlaps.


Pre-Thread dye weaving cloth, Banshu-ori used to develop as the high-quality fabric, mass production, and popularity supported by incredible technique; however, one-item products originated by ‘tamaki niime’ are opposite to the traditional business method. Moreover, in a production area with a highly established division of labour system, their company can complete all operations by themselves, reminding us of the basics of manufacturing.


They don’t depend on order-taking for weaving which is a passive business method. Still, it was inevitable that ‘tamaki niime’ creation has worked with young generation weavers from product districts, who are passionate about developing fabrics and designs.


Ryuta Fujimoto understands what ‘tamaki niime’ should be with his whole being; that’s why he has been able to take on the role of Public Relations and handle the brand messaging.

Fujimoto

Our company exists because ‘Creation is the core’. We are the creators that show people our creations, right?

—— Indeed.

Fujimoto

I recognize our company as part of the entertainment industry that looks like a manufacturing company.

—— …I think you can say that again, yes.

Fujimoto

Our Lab is glass-walled so that people can see inside, and the production system is designed to create ‘one-item products’ so that people would be curious. Some sheep make young people interested, and I think that’s why young people gather here.

—— They create excitement.

Fujimoto

I don’t think this company is the one that I could do whatever I want to do. Showing something means entertaining them. In our company, it’s not enough to do just what you want to do. There are some things that Ms Tamaki intends to do, and the important key is whether customers can enjoy it or not. At the same time, there’s what I want to do.

—— If those vectors are aligned…

Fujimoto

While you do what you want to do, you would understand what the company wants. If you and the company could coordinate and work together well, we would do more exciting things. I have been thinking how I could fit my wants and needs together with the company’s. Of course, Ms Tamaki would advise you to get your ego out and prioritize what you want to do first, but we have to consider that.

—— I often heard from Ms Tamaki during her interviews that she shouldn’t end up just being self-satisfied or conceited. This is my interpretation though, if you do only do what you want to do, it would be a just self-satisfied creation. I think she deeply considered it at first. The creativity of shawls is the product of her thoughts, which form the very core of being ‘tamaki niime’.


Very unique ‘tamaki niime’s shawls are created by Ms Tamaki, who put all her heart and soul into them. They are extraordinarily soft, fresh, and colourful. These products didn’t exist before and cast light and attract people. They are entertaining pieces of work to create excitement.


—— Not trying to please customers; it’s about being one step ahead of them and being there for them. Why are there sheep here? There are surprises and mysterious parts. (laugh) However, they are all deeply connected at the end. In that sense, I think the word ‘entertainment’ can be applied there.

Fujimoto

Ms Tamaki mentioned starting sightseeing as well. Basically, for her, she wants to do something people can enjoy. The things she wants to do with her pure heart and her goals for people in the world are matched consistently in herself. I have been tasked with connecting with people, so I need to think more about what I can do.

—— I see.

Fujimoto

And other than that, I want to raise people up, but what I am doing is just letting them be free.

—— You do so while observing them.

Fujimoto

I think the staff working here have a hard time, with so much to do. But they would increase their capacities while they are doing tough jobs.

—— I see, I see.

Fujimoto

I really think it would do good for them. I want them to try hard.

—— They would be overloaded. In the situations they would die or survive, their ability of creations develops.

Fujimoto

For projects with outside vendors, I introduce them to our young staff when they come for the meeting. ‘tamaki niime’ does the entire production internally, so the team in the factory doesn’t have much of a chance to meet with people outside. Unless they try to reach out to them. By handing out as much work as possible, we can communicate with people outside, motivating us and connecting us to find a production method.

—— They would be motivated, accumulate skills, get new creative ideas, and have a more comprehensive range of work.

Fujimoto

As a result, the range of designs will expand, and their motivation will change.

—— I see.

Fujimoto

It’s a shame if only I have these chances alone. So I have to hand the opportunities out quickly.

—— Listening to you, I understand ‘tamaki niime’ was able to create a self-contained environment within the company. Now that you organized the company systems, you are at a stage to be able to interact outside the company.

Fujimoto

I think so. ‘The Fabric Store’ is one of them… and all look like…

—— Just like ‘Noah’s Ark’, Ms Tamaki would have thought that it would be all right if anything happens under the control that the company can complete all in the house; however, they haven’t worked together long enough for the young staff to build up the company. By connecting with the outside world as the company once again, they try to get chemical reactions, which happening is symbolized by ‘tamaki niime TOKYO MACHIDA’.

Fujimoto

In the past few years, we got more and more 20 year olds who are much younger than me, who are passionate for creation. Understanding the history of ‘tamaki niime’, if we blend with young staff’s future, we would have more exciting things happen. Sharing the fundamental brand value and looking in the same direction will pass it on to the next generation. The system of manufacturing is already well in place. I think we are at the stage where we need to pass on our traditions and raise up staff to the newcomers.

—— I think we live in times where we should focus on passing on our traditions. It is incredible to see the younger weavers working hard by trial and error while wondering: What is Banshu-ori? I am very hopeful. Recently, Banshu-ori‘s value is being rediscovered in other areas in the district. They try to rebuild ‘the town of Banshu-ori’ once more, and ‘tamaki niime’ may be leading that role. The challenge of getting a better world through creation can be the same process as SDGs.

Fujimoto

I heard from a person who knows the local history well that they used to grow cotton in the Hie district in Nishiwaki, where we grow cotton currently. I was deeply impressed that we were growing cotton in such a place. So this year, we plan to plant seeds and harvest at the cotton fields with local kindergarten children, and now we can make our plans come true. I talked to the kindergarten principal and knew he feels children don’t have much chance to see the district industry.

—— I see.

Fujimoto

Not many people across the country are born and raised in a town that has big weaving industries. The local people should have their pride in it and need to pass it on.

—— Exactly. Not everyone can have the experience to live in product districts. It doesn’t happen everywhere.

Fujimoto

I cannot blame some people who may just read a textbook about Banshu-ori, or they cannot have actual experiences. For example, understanding cotton production, if children can see and feel how to grow cotton and know they become threads for weaving cloth, such childhood experiences would give them a chance to be interested in the weaving industry in the future.

—— I see.

Fujimoto

Other than that, since the end of last year, we worked developing fabrics with local high school students as a part of their class and had them make clothes. They have had sewing experience but have never woven cloth with the machine before. So it was really a reasonable effort for us to allow them to experience weaving cloth with the machine with us together at our factory. As a result, we could deeply connect with local people as ‘tamaki niime’. We hope to have enlightening activities beyond business.

—— For high school students, they had perfect practical learning in creation.

Fujimoto

Also, students of a volunteer club from another high school in the city came helping cut weeds with us for cotton fields. We connected with them when they had a Banshu-ori exhibition at their high school gym. We offered to exhibit our products and planned the presentation together. If we do something, someone who shows interest comes up. I like younger people better for that.

—— You are connecting more and more.

Fujimoto

High school students may become interested in weaving after watching a weaving machine at work, and they may join ‘tamaki niime’ in the future. We have a few staff from Hyogo prefecture in our company, most of them moved from afar, including me. I think that’s not bad, and it’s terrific. But I personally think it’s best if local children dare to choose to work here.

—— Nishiwaki has prospered in the past due to locals and transplants coming together for Banshu-ori. It would be wonderful if they could start developing Banshu-ori talents from these local districts.

Fujimoto

If local children choose to work for Banshu-ori, they will change the traditional image of Banshu-ori and weavers. It would be great if immigrants came to work here and experienced people from other places. Still, I hope residents develop the product districts in areas similar to Nishiwaki like we have and choose to work with us in the future. That’s why we are making an effort for that now.

—— I think that’s an ideal way for the company rooted in the local place. And Mr Fujimoto’s efforts and practices are significant.

Fujimoto

(with his calm and clear voice) I would make our company a company that people want to choose.

Original Japanese text by Seiji Koshikawa.
English translation by Adam & Michiko Whipple.