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Encyclopedia of niime

Visiting Katsuyama in Fukui, the roots for Tamaki Niime

〈 part 1 〉

2024 . 05 . 06

Katsuyama City in Fukui prefecture is where Tamaki and Sakai were born and raised. It is surrounded by mountains along the Kuzuryu River across Fukui Prefecture, where it used to be a castle town. Today, it is also known as a ‘dinosaur town’.

Tamaki Niime represents ‘tamaki niime’, the nature brand company whose concept is beyond fashion, creating and producing new ‘only-one-item’ products daily. At the end of February, I visited the homes of Tamaki Niime and Sakai Yoshinori, where they were abundantly nurtured, to search for the roots of their peculiar brand.

Luckily, it was the best time to visit Katsuyama because the ‘Katsuyama Sagicho Festival’ was to open four years after the pandemic. It is the largest local festival, with over 300 years of tradition since the Edo era.

Mutsumi, Tamaki’s sister, once told me that if I go to Katsuyama, it’s best to go during the Sagicho Festival.

About eight years ago, since I read a particular article in the magazine ‘Kurashi no Techo’ (the Life Notebook) about the festival, I was attracted to it and wished to experience it. The residents call this festival ‘a crazy festival’. When Ms Tamaki was a little girl, she was excited to get on the yagura, a raised wooden stage, to dance or play, and Mr Sakai smiled proudly and called it crazy. Finally, my wish to visit here came true.

I went to Bontamaki, a clothing store that the Tamaki family has long run, and interviewed Kazumi, Ms Tamaki’s mom, and Daisuke, her brother.

I was fascinated with its landscape, climate, festivals, foods, weaving, temples, dinosaurs, and culture. More than anything, I was attracted to the people on this trip. Even now, I flash back to memories of my journey and am excited again. I will send you my Kacchama (Katsuyama) visit article.

On February 23 at 10:12 a.m., I got on the Express Thunderbird train for Kanazawa from Osaka to head for Fukui. All the unreserved seats were filled because it was the Japanese Emperor’s birthday, which was the first of three consecutive days off. The train around the Kosei line runs along the Biwa Lake on your right and heads for Tsuruga, the harbour town on the Sea of Japan side. I looked up the tremendous elevated new bullet train station on the Hokuriku Shinkansen, which would open very soon on March 16.

Tsuruga station on Thunderbird Express would become the last stop after the Shinkansen opened, running between Tsuruga and Kanazawa. It ran on that route melancholy and arrived at Fukui station in the afternoon. I had to transfer to the Echizen railroad for my destination, Katsuyama. I had an appointment with Kazumi and Daisuke at 3 p.m. at Bontamaki to interview them.

I got out of the station to fill my stomach. The monument of three real-size Fukui dinosaurs welcomed me at the station square, which is the entrance of Fukui Prefecture. When I turned back, I saw a big dinosaur drawing on the wall of the station building. The letters of DINOSAUR KINGDOM FUKUI were shining. There is the Fukui Dinosaur Museum in Katsuyama, where I am heading now. Tamaki’s hometown has the number one tourist spot, the main dinosaur sightseeing the prefecture recommends.

There is Echizen railroad station next to the JR station, which has been under last-minute completion of renewal construction for the opening of the Shinkansen. They have a modern-designed campus that doesn’t resemble local railroad stations. It’s enjoyable to feel like it is back in time when station attendants clip tickets at a ticket gate. Upon reaching the top of the escalator to the elevated platform, only one train car was waiting for us. Wow! That reminds me of the JR Kakogawa line in Nishiwaki.

The local train left Fukui for Katsuyama at 12:55. After passing a few stations, the Echizen railroad train that went down from the elevated bridge suddenly became more like a local line, which connects between rustic unmanned stations and runs quietly on Fukui plain. A young train clerk made announcements and took care of fare settlement. She smiled politely and was kind to customers.

One car train ran along the valley on the Kuzuryu River near the station of Eihei-Ji temple, a very famous temple. The great mountain peaks appeared before me, covered in snow. I was attracted to the dynamic view. When I searched for information about it online, I learned that Katsuyama is one of the areas with the heaviest snowfall in Japan. Luckily, there was no snow on the plains. The weather report said the festival’s first day would be fine tomorrow.

From the train window, I saw the colossal silver egg dome on the hills along the Kuzuryu River, slowly running parallel on curves with the train line. The announcement on the train said that it was the dinosaur museum.

I arrived at Katsuyama at 1:48 p.m. It was only an hour’s trip. Getting down from the platform, I was welcomed by a retro wooden station building. The wood has rings of history and was built in 1914. Since the old Echizen Electric Railway was opened, it has been registered as a national tangible cultural property. The station was given to Katsuyama City by Echizen Railway, and they renovated it, which was completed in 2013. Facing the ticket gate, there’s an old-fashioned station staff room with reception windows and a waiting room; oh, how nostalgic they are!

In front of the organized station rotary was a line of people waiting for the bus to the dinosaur museum. There was nothing except the facility of the train station and bus stops, but that modest simplicity made me feel more nostalgic. The downtown area of Katsuyama was on the other side of the river. I confirmed the location via Google Maps; there’s only one wide street to go to Bontamaki, my destination, which is in the city’s centre, and it would take me about 15 minutes.

I walked towards the Katsuyama Bridge, which was designed with a winding green line that looked like a dinosaur’s back. I came out at the embankment. In front of my eyes was a panoramic view of snowy mountains and a great stream of the slow, winding, wide Kuzuryu River. Katsuyama is located in the hills along the river. Even though surrounded by mountains on all sides, the land and river are spacious and peaceful. I was impressed with the beautiful view that developed after leading the straightforward station front. Wow! This is the homeland of Mr Sakai and Ms Tamaki!

The view from the bridge with wide-pedestrian space is lovely as well. Front left back, as I saw it from the train window, there’s an oval dinosaur museum created by the architect Noriaki Kurosawa. On the right side is a vast building resembling a Buddhist statue and a five-story pagoda. Searching it on the internet reveals that it is the Daishizan Seidaiji Temple & Echizen Great Buddha, which is larger than the one in Todaiji Temple. The five-story pagoda is the highest in Japan. In Katsuyama, modern art buildings display ancient dinosaurs and massive temples on both sides.

As I Crossed from the bridge, dinosaur statues welcomed me. On the wide street in front of me, green, yellow, and red striped paper are hanging and swinging in the wind, which are decorations of the Sagicho festival. Walking on the right side further ahead, I went by the scaffold of the festival that was taken out from storage, which is a very tall, gorgeous stage. According to the festival guide brochure I got at the station, each city district owns a scaffold.

Further along, the broad street suddenly became hilly, and I came out of the table-land. The shopping mall appeared on the left. It was almost 3 p.m. when I had an appointment. When I checked the location with Google Maps again, I found that I had nearly reached the Bontamaki store. I looked at the second-story, long family-style building with a distinctive, attractive tiled roof. The outside walls are painted white. My eyes met with the man standing by the store and looking toward me. I wondered if he was the one…That was right. The one who was waiting for me was Daisuke, Tamaki’s brother.

He invited me into the store, which was open. Getting inside, you could see the high open ceiling painted white with an extended beam. On the right side, there’s a large white cloth with a bright logo of ‘tamaki niime’; underneath it, colourful products such as shawls are displayed. Kazumi, Tamaki’s mom and two staff members waited for us. It’s comfortable to be inside the clothing shop, which has a bright and homey atmosphere based on white. Even while we were interviewing, customers came in without stop.

Daisuke said quietly, “I sneaked out while working on preparations for the Sagicho festival.”

Kazumi, beside the table, said, “Tomorrow and the day after tomorrow are festivals, and Monday is cleaning up. The Sagicho festival is crazy (laugh).”

They were super busy with the shop at that time… it was not a good time. I felt so bad and regretted it. (sweat)


Daisuke
That’s okay. That’s okay. Yeah.


Kazumi
It’s so lively that I invite people from Nishiwaki.


Daisuke suddenly showed me pictures on his smartphone.


“This is Niime when she was in elementary school.”


Her Mom asked, “She was so cute, right?”


Daisuke
I found pictures at home recently. I put them in the picture database.


—— Ms Tamaki hasn’t looked at them yet, right?


Daisuke
That’s no problem. This is Mutsumi.


—— As I thought, they looked alike.


Tamaki talked about her childhood in Katsuyama in several interviews, such as in the ‘Encyclopedia of niime’. I also wanted to ask her family about some impressive episodes.


—— She remembers sleeping at the store as a baby, and customers cared for her.


Daisuke
We originally had a store not here but at my grandparent’s house. I think she meant when she was little.


Kazumi
We also had a store in Kanazawa and took her there, carrying her in a basket. Come to think of it, she was sitting on the counter. For about a year. She was a quiet child.


—— She told me that you took her to a wholesaler town in Funaba, Osaka, and she enjoyed picking up her favourite clothes and coordinating.


Daisuke
I wonder what it was. Was it when school was out?


Kazumi
I think we took her when her school was out, like spring break. While we were negotiating on business, she chose her favourite clothes.


Daisuke
They sold various clothes, such as Onishi Clothing or Purorutomarumitsu.


Kazumi
She was very clear about what she liked or disliked and didn’t wear what she didn’t like. She hates wearing layers of clothes and looking bulky in the morning. Ever since she was little, she had a preference for comfort and ease of wearing, so it was hard to let her go to school in the morning.


—— She didn’t like to feel heavy.


Kazumi
That’s right. She had to feel simple.


—— (laugh) How about you, Daisuke?


Daisuke
I didn’t care. Anything was fine.


—— How about you, Mutsumi?


Daisuke
Mutsumi is like me.


Kazumi
Many people asked me how I raised them. I don’t think I did anything special…. (laugh)


—— She was very independent, right?


Kazumi
She was the middle of three siblings, so we didn’t take care of her much, but the oldest boy was…


Daisuke
I was well taken care of a lot.


Kazumi
We took care of Mutsumi, the youngest, a lot because she was much younger. The middle child was left alone. Thinking about it back now, she said it was good for her.


—— I am the oldest as well. The oldest boys are well taken care of …


Daisuke
Yeah, right?


Kazumi
Yes, they are well taken care of each thing from 1 to 10.


Daisuke
But I think Niime was a quiet child. I don’t know what she was thinking in her mind, though.


When Tamaki’s late father, Tatsuo, opened his new shop in Kanazawa. He began commuting from Katsuyama to Kanazawa, which was a one-hour-and-a-half drive one way. It was when his children were still in Elementary school.


Daisuke
He left home early in the morning, came home at night, and did it again the next morning. This pattern continued all my days from elementary school through middle school and high school. I remember that when we were in elementary school, he took all the kids to Kanazawa in the wagon truck, and we slept on the mat in the back. Then he went to buy clothes in Osaka. (laugh) The roads are much better now, but I remember they used to be long, rough mountains.


—— I heard your grandmother started opening a store. When was it?


Daisuke
I wonder if it was about 80 years ago.


—— It is a long-established store.


Kazumi
It would take such years.


Daisuke
Mom has run a store for about 50 years, right?


Kazumi
It’s just the 50th anniversary. We have to celebrate it. (laugh) With red and white steamed buns?


—— How long since you moved here?


Daisuke
We came here when I was in elementary school, about 42 years ago. When did you live in Kanazawa?


Kazumi
I put Niime, about six months old, in a basket and placed it on the counter of the products, so it was about 46 to 47 years ago.


—— Did you initially start from the clothing shop?


Kazumi
Clothing and… it was originally a Jack-of-all-Trades, like a family-run department store in the old days.


Daisuke
It’s like today’s home improvement store. We had various things.


Kazumi
We had yarn, socks, and even Noshi ceremonial gift paper.


—— What kind of person was Grandmother?


Daisuke
She was very picky…umm, how can I express this about her?


Kazumi
She was a very reliable person.


Daisuke
That’s genetic. Grandma’s parents started the business.


Kazumi
She started a business as a curio dealer. Grandfather sold fish. He was quiet and obeyed everything he was told.


Daisuke
That’s right. He liked helping her work. (laugh) Mom and Dad were somewhat similar in that way. (laugh)


Kazumi
Don’t say that, (laugh) I am nice.


—— Women are strong in your family. (laugh)


Kazumi
We must have that DNA.


—— How did you see Niime when she was a child?


Daisuke
I thought she was quiet. Compared to her childhood, she has become more aggressive. I felt she was strong internally.


—— She has something determined inside.


Daisuke
Right! She did everything in detail. Anything she did was precise, such as studying. Who did she resemble?


—— She told me she helped put DM letters in the envelopes at the store.


Daisuke
I think she did. I have never done that. (laugh) I am sure she likes such small tasks.


—— She told me she was observing the store while helping.


Daisuke
So, she has been like that since she was little. Because she was always observing well, that’s why she was quiet.


—— She was absorbing many things.


Daisuke
Yeah, yeah. It seemed like that.


After graduating from the Department of Home Economics at college and finishing at a fashion dressing school, she worked at a significant textile trading company. After launching her own brand, she was based in her hometown, Katsuyama, with Sakai for a short while before coming to Nishiwaki. Twenty years ago, Daisuke was asked to help his father’s business and came back to Bontamaki in Katsuyama from Tokyo. There, he met his sister, who became a designer.


Daisuke
When I returned to Katsuyama, there was a vacant house next to my parents’ house where she used to make clothing. Where did she come back from? …that was Osaka. It was the most challenging time.


—— I see. It was the time she did try and make errors.


Daisuke
Yeah. She returned with Mr Sakai, and they worked on the first floor of a three-story building next to our parent’s house for one or two years. I think they made shirts. I am trying to remember if they were sold then, even though they worked until late at night. We doubted if they could keep doing it. Yeah, I doubted.


—— When she came to Nishiwaki to use the fabrics of Banshu ori, I think she made a shirt category.


Daisuke
That’s right. And then next, she made shawls. She was not introverted but quiet and not open to other people. She was not the type of person to talk in front of people. When she returned to Katsuyama, she was quiet and didn’t talk much. Since Sakai is a friendly person, she depended on him for it.


—— Division of roles: Niime is the creator.


Daisuke
That’s right. I think she is different now. She became actively interacting with people. She had not been like that for a long time. A few years ago, she said that she appeared more to people. Since she was asked to talk in lectures, I think that made her more active.


—— Do you have anything you expect from her in the future?


Daisuke
I want her to do what she wants to do. I have nothing I could say to her as her older brother. (laugh)


—— Right now in Katsuyama, does Niime have things she does for the city?


Daisuke
I think she lectures in the city and talks to the mayor. When she came back last, she was invited to her alma mater, Katsuyama High School, and helped classes as an advisor.


—— Did she do it by herself?


Daisuke
She said, “I can’t take anyone with me because this is not a job.” (laugh) She used to take Mutsumi with her, but she now goes anywhere to give lectures alone.


—— She got used to talking (laugh). Looking at her Instagram, I see that she goes everywhere, from northern to southern Japan and even to Dubai. Thank you for taking the time today for me while you are busy getting ready for the festival.


Daisuke
I couldn’t give you much information, though.


—— Well, thank you so much for sharing valuable stories. Ah, do you know any good restaurants you recommend?


Daisuke
In Katsuyama? Soba noodles are great in Katsuyama. Specifically, Soba noodles with grated radish! I think any restaurant should be good. It’s better to go today before the festival.


It was about 4:30 p.m. when I reached to the end point in my interview with him. After that, with Daisuke’s courtesy, he took me to Echizen Daibutsu, the biggest in Japan. However, it was closed after 4 p.m. during winter.

Returning to Bontamaki, I continued interviewing Kazumi, who had to leave during the interview to serve customers. After that, Daisuke took me to the restaurant Nomura that he recommended, and he treated me to the shop’s specialty: a pork cutlet rice bowl with soft, melty egg and soba noodles with grated radish.

Daisuke went back to prepare for the Sagicho festival at 7 p.m. I thanked him so much for taking care of me even though he was very busy, and thanks for treating me to great food.

And even more, I am always indebted to the Tamaki family; surprisingly, Kazumi took me to see Echizen Daibutsu the following day.

This is a Katsuyama Travelogue where I search for the roots of Tamaki Niime.

Only her mother knows how to dig to know Tamaki Niime. I will still keep interviewing Kazumi and tell you about Echizen Daibutsu, scenes from the exciting ‘mysterious’ Sagicho festival, the dinosaur museum, which is Fukui’s best tourist spot, and the ‘weaving memorial museum Yume ore Katsuyama’ where they wonderfully display the local industry products of silky weaving. Please look forward to the next one!

Original Japanese text by Seiji Koshikawa.
English translation by Adam & Michiko Whipple.